Wednesday, April 30, 2008
MOTORBIKES!!! And, We Found the (a) Wat!
We had planned on going climbing Tuesday, getting up early, packing up the gear, grabbing a quick breakfast and everything.
And then it started raining.
As disappointed as we were, it didn't make sense to spend the money on motorbikes and gear rental, and the time to get out to the crag, just to find we coulnd't climb. So we threw in the towel, and headed back to the guest house to do a little reading.
When it cleared up a bit in the afternoon, we decided to rent the motorbikes anyway, and drive up to Doi Suthep, a wat in the hills above Chiang Mai. The bikes were even more fun than I had remembered! We navigated through the maze of Chiang Mai's one way streets and insane traffic and arrived at the wat a little while later.
To get to the temple, you have to climb 306 steps. But it was totally worth it, as the view of the city was beautiful, as was the wat. But after making our way around for awhile, it started sprinkling again. We decided to make our way back to the city, and maybe stop for smoothies along the way. The sprinkle turned into a drizzle and I finally got to use my new rain jacket. (Good news: it works like a champ!) We made our way carefully down the hill and since we weren't getting any drier, stopped for a smoothie just outside the moat. While there, we persued a few international papers and tried to catch up on the rest of the world. (Hillary won PA? Chelsea and Man. United are tied for first? You can "commit journalism" in Zimbabwe?)
A little while later we reluctantly turned in our bikes and held out hope that today would be drier, and perhaps we could go for another ride outside of town. Alas, it is not to be, as it has been raining intermittenly since morning. Is this what they mean by the wet season?
Tomorrow we fly to Luang Prabang, Laos, to spend a few days at the UNESCO World Heritage site. It's a much smaller town than we've seen thus far, with nearby caves to explore, lots of cycling to be had and possibly even some climbing. Maybe we'll even find a few more wats...
And then it started raining.
As disappointed as we were, it didn't make sense to spend the money on motorbikes and gear rental, and the time to get out to the crag, just to find we coulnd't climb. So we threw in the towel, and headed back to the guest house to do a little reading.
When it cleared up a bit in the afternoon, we decided to rent the motorbikes anyway, and drive up to Doi Suthep, a wat in the hills above Chiang Mai. The bikes were even more fun than I had remembered! We navigated through the maze of Chiang Mai's one way streets and insane traffic and arrived at the wat a little while later.
To get to the temple, you have to climb 306 steps. But it was totally worth it, as the view of the city was beautiful, as was the wat. But after making our way around for awhile, it started sprinkling again. We decided to make our way back to the city, and maybe stop for smoothies along the way. The sprinkle turned into a drizzle and I finally got to use my new rain jacket. (Good news: it works like a champ!) We made our way carefully down the hill and since we weren't getting any drier, stopped for a smoothie just outside the moat. While there, we persued a few international papers and tried to catch up on the rest of the world. (Hillary won PA? Chelsea and Man. United are tied for first? You can "commit journalism" in Zimbabwe?)
A little while later we reluctantly turned in our bikes and held out hope that today would be drier, and perhaps we could go for another ride outside of town. Alas, it is not to be, as it has been raining intermittenly since morning. Is this what they mean by the wet season?
Tomorrow we fly to Luang Prabang, Laos, to spend a few days at the UNESCO World Heritage site. It's a much smaller town than we've seen thus far, with nearby caves to explore, lots of cycling to be had and possibly even some climbing. Maybe we'll even find a few more wats...
Thai Boxing!
After taking a yoga class, Jen and I prepared for our first ever Thai boxing match. It was definitely interesting. It started out with two young boys (maybe 10 years old?) which kind of disturbed me. I don't know if it's a good idea to have children trying to beat the crap out of each other, all while a crowd looks on and cheers.
But it got better after that, with a few adult fights. Jen and I tried to pick out the winners beforehand, basically by discussing who was more attractive, or who had the cooler looking shorts. In each match, there seemed to be a guy who had rolled up his shorts, to make them smaller. It just doesn't seem wise to me, but what do I know?
Music would play through each round, and the boxers seem to dance around each other, to the beat. During the second match, one guy was completely knocked out and had to be carried out of the ring. It wasn't nearly as impressive as a Jean Claude Van Damme movie, but the crowd did get kind of into it, especially the Thai side of the ring.
Then, as an intermission of sorts, four blindfolded boxers were put in the ring, flailing around, hitting whatever body they came in contact with. More often than not, their punches and kicks landed on the ref, who tried to dive out of the way when he could, but did end up on the buttom of a pile-on towards the end!
Unfortunately, the lady boxers that followed were kinda of boring. We watched one more fight after them, and then started back to the guest house. On our way, an older white gentleman pulled up next to us on his motor bike. He said he was involved in Thai import/export and had something to show us. We didn't even pause in our walking, just said "No thanks." He responded, "your loss." To which Jen and I replied, "I doubt it."
Now, let me ask you a question: do Jen and I look that stupid? I mean, seriously. I wasn't even creeped out by this guy, just pissed that he thought we were dumb enough to fall for something like that. I mean, is that anyway to run a business? Why not just have his cousin from Nigeria send us an email asking us for our bank account number?
But it got better after that, with a few adult fights. Jen and I tried to pick out the winners beforehand, basically by discussing who was more attractive, or who had the cooler looking shorts. In each match, there seemed to be a guy who had rolled up his shorts, to make them smaller. It just doesn't seem wise to me, but what do I know?
Music would play through each round, and the boxers seem to dance around each other, to the beat. During the second match, one guy was completely knocked out and had to be carried out of the ring. It wasn't nearly as impressive as a Jean Claude Van Damme movie, but the crowd did get kind of into it, especially the Thai side of the ring.
Then, as an intermission of sorts, four blindfolded boxers were put in the ring, flailing around, hitting whatever body they came in contact with. More often than not, their punches and kicks landed on the ref, who tried to dive out of the way when he could, but did end up on the buttom of a pile-on towards the end!
Unfortunately, the lady boxers that followed were kinda of boring. We watched one more fight after them, and then started back to the guest house. On our way, an older white gentleman pulled up next to us on his motor bike. He said he was involved in Thai import/export and had something to show us. We didn't even pause in our walking, just said "No thanks." He responded, "your loss." To which Jen and I replied, "I doubt it."
Now, let me ask you a question: do Jen and I look that stupid? I mean, seriously. I wasn't even creeped out by this guy, just pissed that he thought we were dumb enough to fall for something like that. I mean, is that anyway to run a business? Why not just have his cousin from Nigeria send us an email asking us for our bank account number?
Just Your Average Sunday in Chiang Mai
Before stopping at "Loves Chocolate" (a shop selling not just chocolate but coffee, ice cream, internet access, massage packages and guest house rooms for 150B) to use the internet this past Sunday, we had enjoyed a delicious breakfast at this organic place, Juicy 4U. After fueling up on lassis (smoothies), banana pancakes and a sandwich, Jen and I decided to try to find the other climbing center in town. We had already priced out the cost of rentals at Chiang Mai Climbing and wanted to see if The Peak offered anything better.
Without much trouble, or much help from the map, we were able to locate the Peak Bar, but not the gym. As we turned around to head back the way we came, Jen noticed a tall structure with The Peak emblazoned on the side. We couldn't find an entrance though, so we stopped at the bar to ask around. Before we could so much as get a few words out, we were accosted by a drunken Brit. He proceeded to tell us how he had spent the past few days with the father of this girl he had, um, had relations with, which I think is not necessarily the story you want to lead with.
He told us about his father, the first fighter pilot, and his mum's boyfriend, this Irish bloke. Jen abandoned me shortly thereafter to ask the bartender about the climbing gym, and I was left to nod sympathetically. Jen returned quickly, having learned that The Peak had closed down and we hurried off, turning down the Brit's offer of a drunk. (Note: it was barely afternoon at the time.)
We spent the rest of the afternoon and part of the evening at the Sunday Walking Street Market, which seemed to stretch over most of the inner moat area. I successfully bargained myself into a scarf/belt for 70B, down from 80B. (Small accomplishments, I know, but a girl's gotta start somewhere.)
Afterwards, we dropped in at Chillout Bar, down the street (literally ON either side of the street in fact) from our guesthouse. We sampled the local rum, played a few hands of cards and called it a night.
Without much trouble, or much help from the map, we were able to locate the Peak Bar, but not the gym. As we turned around to head back the way we came, Jen noticed a tall structure with The Peak emblazoned on the side. We couldn't find an entrance though, so we stopped at the bar to ask around. Before we could so much as get a few words out, we were accosted by a drunken Brit. He proceeded to tell us how he had spent the past few days with the father of this girl he had, um, had relations with, which I think is not necessarily the story you want to lead with.
He told us about his father, the first fighter pilot, and his mum's boyfriend, this Irish bloke. Jen abandoned me shortly thereafter to ask the bartender about the climbing gym, and I was left to nod sympathetically. Jen returned quickly, having learned that The Peak had closed down and we hurried off, turning down the Brit's offer of a drunk. (Note: it was barely afternoon at the time.)
We spent the rest of the afternoon and part of the evening at the Sunday Walking Street Market, which seemed to stretch over most of the inner moat area. I successfully bargained myself into a scarf/belt for 70B, down from 80B. (Small accomplishments, I know, but a girl's gotta start somewhere.)
Afterwards, we dropped in at Chillout Bar, down the street (literally ON either side of the street in fact) from our guesthouse. We sampled the local rum, played a few hands of cards and called it a night.
Sunday, April 27, 2008
Odds and Ends
I've added some photos to previous posts, so be sure to take a look. I must give credit where credit is due: Jen took all of these photos. (Most of my photos have been of food...)
I want to thank my husband for buying me a Leatherman to take on the trip- it's been used frequently: to pop an ant bite, to peel an apple (after it was thoroughly washed, of course) and to open a bag of laundry detergent. Multi-purpose tool, indeed!
Mom, remember those toilets at the gas station outside of Paris? That's what we've been dealing with a lot...
A question: My bug spray leaked and ate through my toiletry bag. Should I be worried about using it on my skin?!
Kanchanaburi was home to many cats, most of whom Jen fed at one point or another. Chiang Mai seems to be home to mostly dogs. Curious. Also curious, Jen seems less inclined to feed the dogs. Or the children.
Greg, they have Tim Tams. I've already got Jen hooked.
Some advice: don't drink the Coke, it tastes awful. (Sorry Frankie!) But 7up seems to taste the same.
I want to thank my husband for buying me a Leatherman to take on the trip- it's been used frequently: to pop an ant bite, to peel an apple (after it was thoroughly washed, of course) and to open a bag of laundry detergent. Multi-purpose tool, indeed!
Mom, remember those toilets at the gas station outside of Paris? That's what we've been dealing with a lot...
A question: My bug spray leaked and ate through my toiletry bag. Should I be worried about using it on my skin?!
Kanchanaburi was home to many cats, most of whom Jen fed at one point or another. Chiang Mai seems to be home to mostly dogs. Curious. Also curious, Jen seems less inclined to feed the dogs. Or the children.
Greg, they have Tim Tams. I've already got Jen hooked.
Some advice: don't drink the Coke, it tastes awful. (Sorry Frankie!) But 7up seems to taste the same.
Burgers, Bamboo Rafting and (B)Elephants
After our "taxi" ride from the train station, we arrived at SK Guest House. We dropped our stuff and grabbed some breakfast. We went out exploring afterwards, figuring that since we were in the old section of Chiang Mai, and surrounded by a moat, there was little chance we would get too lost in our tired state.
As luck would have it, we came across a great little travel agency, and signed up for a short trek the next day. After doing some laundry (much needed, let me tell you), we decided to find Mike's for some "damn good hamburgers." (Hey, a woman can only eat so much rice and eggs, ok?!) The burgers weren't half bad, they came with fries, and Jen had herself a delicious vanilla milkshake. We walked to the night market afterwards, made a few purchases and moseyed on back to get some rest before our early morning pick up.
Although the bus showed up late to get us, we were blessed with an enthusiastic tour guide and amiable fellow tourists. We headed first for OUR ELEPHANT RIDE, the part I had been most excited about. (Can you tell?) But, similar to our experiences at the Tiger Temple, we both ended up a little disillusioned. The elephants were chained and our "driver" spent a lot of time hitting our elephant with a stick and poking him in his ear. But, when we stopped so the elephants could get some water, we were able to feed them bananas, which was pretty awesome.
Next, we headed to one of the hill-tribe villages, and looked around for a few minutes. Very quickly we were on our trek, hiking towards a waterfall, and then onto another village. Jen and a few of the others took a swim at the waterfall and we were able to relax in the shade a bit. After the second village, we stopped for lunch.
Then, bamboo rafting! The rafts, such as they were, consisted of about 10 long bamboo poles lashed together. There were three of us to a boat, with one guide operating the complicated "stick pole in water and push" steering system. (Our boat also had a first mate, who kept falling off. If he was supposed to be learning the ropes, I don't know how successful he was.) Along the way, we encountered lots of locals out for a swim or rafting as well. It soon became de riguer for them to splash us, in fun or out of anger, I couldn't quite tell. (The children laughed when they did it. The older folks seemed mad. I'm gonna use my innocent American tourist blinders here and decide it was all for fun.)
Thus thoroughly soaked, we disembarked and hopped on the bus for the ride back to Chiang Mai. You'll be happy to know that we decided against hamburgers for the second night in a row, and went for Indian food instead.
But, we may have headed to the UN Irish Pub afterwards, for a beer. And to watch the last third of the Chelsea v. Man. U. game (Go Chelsea!), as well as the Newcastle v. West Ham (Go Magpies!) game that followed...
As luck would have it, we came across a great little travel agency, and signed up for a short trek the next day. After doing some laundry (much needed, let me tell you), we decided to find Mike's for some "damn good hamburgers." (Hey, a woman can only eat so much rice and eggs, ok?!) The burgers weren't half bad, they came with fries, and Jen had herself a delicious vanilla milkshake. We walked to the night market afterwards, made a few purchases and moseyed on back to get some rest before our early morning pick up.
Although the bus showed up late to get us, we were blessed with an enthusiastic tour guide and amiable fellow tourists. We headed first for OUR ELEPHANT RIDE, the part I had been most excited about. (Can you tell?) But, similar to our experiences at the Tiger Temple, we both ended up a little disillusioned. The elephants were chained and our "driver" spent a lot of time hitting our elephant with a stick and poking him in his ear. But, when we stopped so the elephants could get some water, we were able to feed them bananas, which was pretty awesome.
Next, we headed to one of the hill-tribe villages, and looked around for a few minutes. Very quickly we were on our trek, hiking towards a waterfall, and then onto another village. Jen and a few of the others took a swim at the waterfall and we were able to relax in the shade a bit. After the second village, we stopped for lunch.
Then, bamboo rafting! The rafts, such as they were, consisted of about 10 long bamboo poles lashed together. There were three of us to a boat, with one guide operating the complicated "stick pole in water and push" steering system. (Our boat also had a first mate, who kept falling off. If he was supposed to be learning the ropes, I don't know how successful he was.) Along the way, we encountered lots of locals out for a swim or rafting as well. It soon became de riguer for them to splash us, in fun or out of anger, I couldn't quite tell. (The children laughed when they did it. The older folks seemed mad. I'm gonna use my innocent American tourist blinders here and decide it was all for fun.)
Thus thoroughly soaked, we disembarked and hopped on the bus for the ride back to Chiang Mai. You'll be happy to know that we decided against hamburgers for the second night in a row, and went for Indian food instead.
But, we may have headed to the UN Irish Pub afterwards, for a beer. And to watch the last third of the Chelsea v. Man. U. game (Go Chelsea!), as well as the Newcastle v. West Ham (Go Magpies!) game that followed...
One Night (err, afternoon) in Bangkok
Our minibus back to Bangkok was much less sketchy than our ride on Tuesday. Jen and I trudged over the Rambutri, having salivated the entire bus ride over the prospect of another round of spring rolls and pad thai from our favorite lady, only to find that she was not there! (The nerve.) Instead, we had some uninspiring chicken and rice with soy sauce that I could have made with more flavor. Ah, well.
And then the taxi fiasco began. Every time we approached one to take us to the train station, the driver said it would be 200B. Now, these taxis are metered, so there was no way we were going to fall for that trick. We held our ground and finally found a guy who would go by the meter. He turned out to be pretty funny, and we were able to utilize our travel aliases for the first time. ("I'd like to introduce Sam, a crayola color specialist from Colorado, and her friend, Ryan, a wave technician from Ohio.")
We were at the train station quite early, and went a little nuts on the sugar- brownies from a bakery, waffles from a place like the one at the Bangkok market and Dunkin Donut holes!
When we finally got on the train, we squeezed into our little sleeper berth and tried to open what we thought was our private bathroom. (Wishful thinking on our part.) To our horror (and, honestly, amusement), a woman began knocking back, and speaking loudly in Thai. Apparently, it was a door between the two berths, NOT a bathroom! While the train waitress (?) was taking our dinner order, our neighboor poked her head in and laughed at us. At least she wasn't upset!
Although the accomdations were less than luxe, we survived the night, and arrived in Chiang Mai the next morning. We'll be here for one of the longest stretches, six nights.
And then the taxi fiasco began. Every time we approached one to take us to the train station, the driver said it would be 200B. Now, these taxis are metered, so there was no way we were going to fall for that trick. We held our ground and finally found a guy who would go by the meter. He turned out to be pretty funny, and we were able to utilize our travel aliases for the first time. ("I'd like to introduce Sam, a crayola color specialist from Colorado, and her friend, Ryan, a wave technician from Ohio.")
We were at the train station quite early, and went a little nuts on the sugar- brownies from a bakery, waffles from a place like the one at the Bangkok market and Dunkin Donut holes!
When we finally got on the train, we squeezed into our little sleeper berth and tried to open what we thought was our private bathroom. (Wishful thinking on our part.) To our horror (and, honestly, amusement), a woman began knocking back, and speaking loudly in Thai. Apparently, it was a door between the two berths, NOT a bathroom! While the train waitress (?) was taking our dinner order, our neighboor poked her head in and laughed at us. At least she wasn't upset!
Although the accomdations were less than luxe, we survived the night, and arrived in Chiang Mai the next morning. We'll be here for one of the longest stretches, six nights.
Tigers, Oh My!
The moment Jen had been waiting for since we began planning this trip: Tiger Temple. We took a "taxi" with six other people on Wednesday afternoon. When I say "taxi" I mean: a pickup truck with a bench along either side of the bed, a makeshift roof with flowered paper and open sides. (And no seatbelts. Don't tell Mom!)
When we arrived at the temple, I put on my long sleeve pullover (no bare shoulders or open toes in temples, tiger or otherwise), we signed the waiver releasing them from any responsibility should we get eaten, and set off.
First stop- the tiger canyon! Jen and I tried to listen to what the guide in front of us was telling his group, as we had been given no warnings. Luckily, there were plenty of volunteers in the canyon to tell us. No bright colors, no sunglasses, no hanging bags. We were lead by hand one at a time to sit by a few (chained up) tigers while another volunteer took photos with our cameras.
It was depressing. There were so many people, and the tigers just lay there. One volunteer said it was because they'd already eaten and been exercised, and that like all cats, liked to lay in the sun and nap. I guess I'll believe that.
The next stop was the cage area, where there were a couple of young tigers to sit with. They were cute, and playful, and made us feel a little better. There were also pigs and cows and water buffalo and deer and chickens and peacocks and horses. (I wonder if the tigers ever try to eat them?)
We were allowed to stay, behind gates, to watch the tigers being brought back to their cages. Then we headed back to the "taxi" and the ride back to Blue Star. Along the way, our fellow passngers gave us some great advice about places to stay in Cambodia, etc.
We had planned on going to the night market, for some cheap food and a look around, but much like the wats the day before, we couldn't find it. (Let's hope this doesn't develop into too much of a theme!) So we settled for dinner at our guest house (cheap and good) and tried to mentally prepare ourselves for the mini-bus journey back to Bangkok the next day.
When we arrived at the temple, I put on my long sleeve pullover (no bare shoulders or open toes in temples, tiger or otherwise), we signed the waiver releasing them from any responsibility should we get eaten, and set off.
First stop- the tiger canyon! Jen and I tried to listen to what the guide in front of us was telling his group, as we had been given no warnings. Luckily, there were plenty of volunteers in the canyon to tell us. No bright colors, no sunglasses, no hanging bags. We were lead by hand one at a time to sit by a few (chained up) tigers while another volunteer took photos with our cameras.
It was depressing. There were so many people, and the tigers just lay there. One volunteer said it was because they'd already eaten and been exercised, and that like all cats, liked to lay in the sun and nap. I guess I'll believe that.
The next stop was the cage area, where there were a couple of young tigers to sit with. They were cute, and playful, and made us feel a little better. There were also pigs and cows and water buffalo and deer and chickens and peacocks and horses. (I wonder if the tigers ever try to eat them?)
We were allowed to stay, behind gates, to watch the tigers being brought back to their cages. Then we headed back to the "taxi" and the ride back to Blue Star. Along the way, our fellow passngers gave us some great advice about places to stay in Cambodia, etc.
We had planned on going to the night market, for some cheap food and a look around, but much like the wats the day before, we couldn't find it. (Let's hope this doesn't develop into too much of a theme!) So we settled for dinner at our guest house (cheap and good) and tried to mentally prepare ourselves for the mini-bus journey back to Bangkok the next day.
Wednesday, April 23, 2008
MOTORBIKES!!! And the Ever Popular, Where Is the Wat?
After dropping our bags in the bungalow, having a yummy brunch and taking a quick shower, Jen and I decided to try our hands at motorbiking. Let me just say:
I LOVE MOTORBIKES.
I am totally getting one when I get back to LA. But I'm getting ahead of myself. I was a bit apprehensive at first. Not about operating the motorbike succesfully, but about remembering which side of the road to ride on. Nevertheless, I brushed the fear aside and picked out a green helmet to go with my bike, Sparky. (She was blue... I don't know, it made sense at the time.)
As we prepared to take off, I gripped the speed a little too fast, and scared the crap out of the motorbike propietor. I toned it down after that and we got on our way, Jen taking the lead. We had two maps and instructions on how to get a wat up in the hills.
A piece of advice for you- not only are the Kanchanaburi maps not drawn to scale, they are also not drawn to correctness. We traipsed all over the nearby countryside, but to no avail. (We might've found some good climbing though, for future reference.) At some point I'll include pictures on this blog, so you can see some of the random temple-like structures and graves (?) we found along the way.
(I can neither confirm nor deny if we stopped at a Tesco on the way back. I can also not verify that we had some Dairy Queen while we were there. Rumors, people, just rumors.)
We had to return the bikes by 9pm, much to my dismay. Jen promised me we could rent them again in Chiang Mai, and I'm gonna hold her to that.
I LOVE MOTORBIKES.
I am totally getting one when I get back to LA. But I'm getting ahead of myself. I was a bit apprehensive at first. Not about operating the motorbike succesfully, but about remembering which side of the road to ride on. Nevertheless, I brushed the fear aside and picked out a green helmet to go with my bike, Sparky. (She was blue... I don't know, it made sense at the time.)
As we prepared to take off, I gripped the speed a little too fast, and scared the crap out of the motorbike propietor. I toned it down after that and we got on our way, Jen taking the lead. We had two maps and instructions on how to get a wat up in the hills.
A piece of advice for you- not only are the Kanchanaburi maps not drawn to scale, they are also not drawn to correctness. We traipsed all over the nearby countryside, but to no avail. (We might've found some good climbing though, for future reference.) At some point I'll include pictures on this blog, so you can see some of the random temple-like structures and graves (?) we found along the way.
(I can neither confirm nor deny if we stopped at a Tesco on the way back. I can also not verify that we had some Dairy Queen while we were there. Rumors, people, just rumors.)
We had to return the bikes by 9pm, much to my dismay. Jen promised me we could rent them again in Chiang Mai, and I'm gonna hold her to that.
A Thrilling Game of Musical Buses
When the alarm went off at 6am on Tuesday morning, both Jen and I groaned. I might be (somewhat of) a morning person, but even this was too early for me. We loaded up all of our crap and headed downstairs to catch the mini-bus to Kanchanaburi.
After negotiating the narrow alley, our driver started down the road to pick up more passengers. After a brief stop on Khoa San Rd, we went around the block, where he stopped, met another man, and told us we had to get out. Confused about the reason why, we did as we were told and climbing onto the bus waiting behind us. This driver then headed back to Khoa San Rd, where we stopped the same place as before, and told us to get out, we were switching to a third bus. At this point, Jen and I were both feeling that the whole situation was sketchy. But, we were loaded onto the third bus, which was already crowded with other tourists, and set off shortly thereafter. (Jen riding shotgun, lucky dog.)
The mini-bus was essentially a van that fit 10 passengers and a driver. We weaved our way through Bangkok traffic, and headed NW to Kanchanaburi. Everyone else on the bus seemed to be with a tour, so when we arrived, they were met w/ a guide, and we headed off to find a guest house. The long, hot, humid walk with our packs was killer, but we lucked out w/ the guest house: Blue Star. (Yay, stars!)
The staff was pleasant, the bungalows sitting on stilts above the marsh were picturesque and we had AC. We didn't notice until later that there was no toilet paper in the bathroom, and neither a top sheet nor a blanket on the bed. However, the shower and toilet and sink were all in one small tiled room which was very clean... possibly due to the fact that every time you showered, the toilet got hit with the bulk of the water!
Adding to its charm, Blue Star has a delicious restaurant with cheap prices, and a family of cats and kittens that prowl around, begging for attention. Now we wait to take the minibus back to Bangkok, to catch our train to Chiang Mai. The front desk assures us we only have to take one bus...
After negotiating the narrow alley, our driver started down the road to pick up more passengers. After a brief stop on Khoa San Rd, we went around the block, where he stopped, met another man, and told us we had to get out. Confused about the reason why, we did as we were told and climbing onto the bus waiting behind us. This driver then headed back to Khoa San Rd, where we stopped the same place as before, and told us to get out, we were switching to a third bus. At this point, Jen and I were both feeling that the whole situation was sketchy. But, we were loaded onto the third bus, which was already crowded with other tourists, and set off shortly thereafter. (Jen riding shotgun, lucky dog.)
The mini-bus was essentially a van that fit 10 passengers and a driver. We weaved our way through Bangkok traffic, and headed NW to Kanchanaburi. Everyone else on the bus seemed to be with a tour, so when we arrived, they were met w/ a guide, and we headed off to find a guest house. The long, hot, humid walk with our packs was killer, but we lucked out w/ the guest house: Blue Star. (Yay, stars!)
The staff was pleasant, the bungalows sitting on stilts above the marsh were picturesque and we had AC. We didn't notice until later that there was no toilet paper in the bathroom, and neither a top sheet nor a blanket on the bed. However, the shower and toilet and sink were all in one small tiled room which was very clean... possibly due to the fact that every time you showered, the toilet got hit with the bulk of the water!
Adding to its charm, Blue Star has a delicious restaurant with cheap prices, and a family of cats and kittens that prowl around, begging for attention. Now we wait to take the minibus back to Bangkok, to catch our train to Chiang Mai. The front desk assures us we only have to take one bus...
Tuesday, April 22, 2008
Kathoey! God bless you.
After a brief respite from the Bangkok air (read: we sat in our AC room and wrote postcards), Jen and I ventured out again for some dinner. We had found a woman with a cart who made delicious spring rolls the day before (on our way back from massages, day two) and we decided to each grab one, and an order of pad thai. We sat on a curb to eat our meal, and marveled at how truly Bangkokian we were, what with the sounds of Hotel California being sung in the background and all.
Then it was on to our exciting plans for the evening: Mambo Caberet! Words cannot describe...
But let me back up, to our taxi ride to the other side of Bangkok. The taxi itself was fine, and the fare was a whopping 100B (roughly $3). But he didn't drop us exactly at the Washington Theatre; more like just the general area. After flailing around a bit, we stopped in at a hotel to ask for directions. After being pointed in the direction from which we had already traipsed, and given vague advice like "take a right," we set off again. A bell boy stopped us to say he was on his way to the Mambo Caberet just that minute. "Perfect!" we exclaimed. Yeah, only 50B, he replied. Umm, no.
We walked a few blocks in what ultimately turned out to be the right direction, only to hear the bell boy shout "Madam! Madam!" as he ran to catch up with us. His story was that his manager had told him it wasn't safe for us to be walking around on our own, so he would show us the way.
We tried to shake him off, but he insisted, so we followed. However, when he took a right into a poorly lit alley, and then a left into an unlit alley, we both shared a look. When we questioned him, he explained that it was a short cut. Both silently debating our chances to fight him off, two against one, we nearly stopped dead in our tracks as an elephant lumbered into our path. (Where does he live?!) Momentarily distracted, we soon remembered our predicament, and began to discuss our options.
Seconds later, we rounded a building, and saw the caberet.
I tipped the guy 20B and we went into the show.
I have pictures, I even have some video, but even those mediums could do no justice to what we saw over the next hour. The caberet is a music-and-dancing event, but with Thailand's third gender, kathoey. (Definition: lady men.) It's amazing how difficult long hair, make-up and a frilly dress can make it to tell the women from the men.
Destiny's Child was there, along with the Blues Brothers. Japan and China were represented, albeit in Day-Glo and black lights. And a fat guy in a kimono stole the show. (And showed a boob.)
Then it was on to our exciting plans for the evening: Mambo Caberet! Words cannot describe...
But let me back up, to our taxi ride to the other side of Bangkok. The taxi itself was fine, and the fare was a whopping 100B (roughly $3). But he didn't drop us exactly at the Washington Theatre; more like just the general area. After flailing around a bit, we stopped in at a hotel to ask for directions. After being pointed in the direction from which we had already traipsed, and given vague advice like "take a right," we set off again. A bell boy stopped us to say he was on his way to the Mambo Caberet just that minute. "Perfect!" we exclaimed. Yeah, only 50B, he replied. Umm, no.
We walked a few blocks in what ultimately turned out to be the right direction, only to hear the bell boy shout "Madam! Madam!" as he ran to catch up with us. His story was that his manager had told him it wasn't safe for us to be walking around on our own, so he would show us the way.
We tried to shake him off, but he insisted, so we followed. However, when he took a right into a poorly lit alley, and then a left into an unlit alley, we both shared a look. When we questioned him, he explained that it was a short cut. Both silently debating our chances to fight him off, two against one, we nearly stopped dead in our tracks as an elephant lumbered into our path. (Where does he live?!) Momentarily distracted, we soon remembered our predicament, and began to discuss our options.
Seconds later, we rounded a building, and saw the caberet.
I tipped the guy 20B and we went into the show.
I have pictures, I even have some video, but even those mediums could do no justice to what we saw over the next hour. The caberet is a music-and-dancing event, but with Thailand's third gender, kathoey. (Definition: lady men.) It's amazing how difficult long hair, make-up and a frilly dress can make it to tell the women from the men.
Destiny's Child was there, along with the Blues Brothers. Japan and China were represented, albeit in Day-Glo and black lights. And a fat guy in a kimono stole the show. (And showed a boob.)
Teasers for next time: Sketchy bus rides, Jen and Kristen join the (Thai motorbike version of) Hell's Angels, Where is the wat? and (drum roll, please) TIGERS!!! (No lions or bears though. Yet.)
P.S. Dad, I saw two "country and golf clubs" so you could totally come here.
Monday, April 21, 2008
Cool Is a Relative Term
First, let me just say- it's freaking HOT and HUMID in this country!
Jen and I know, because we spent the greater part of yesterday and today walking around in the blazing sun. However, if you ever find yourself in Bangkok, please spend the 250B and go see the Emerald Buddha. It's much cooler in there.
We almost didn't make it to the Emerald Buddha and Wat Pho, because this man insisted that they were both closed due to some Thai holiday, and since we were neither monks nor men, we were not allowed in. LIARS! We got in no problem... along with every other Tom, Ricardo and Henri.
I've been spending the bulk of my money on bottled water, in hopes of avoiding dehydration. I suppose the Singhas and Tigers aren't helping that much.
Every where we've gone, we've had to find the shade to sit in. And every night, we've gone to the bar down the street to see EPL games with the British expats. (What can I say? We love football!) (Also, this place had the most disgusting bathroom I've ever encountered, with the sole exception being the port-a-potties at the Phoenix Bouldering Comp on a Sunday morning.)
Jen feels that I should mention that if you hear we've been jailed in Thailand, it will be because we've punched a tuk-tuk driver in the face, what with their incessant "tuk-tuk" and pointing. And I might add, if we end up in the hospital, it's because we've been run over by one of the red, blue, orange or pink taxis after refusing to acknowledge their incessant beeping.
Ta ta for now!
Jen and I know, because we spent the greater part of yesterday and today walking around in the blazing sun. However, if you ever find yourself in Bangkok, please spend the 250B and go see the Emerald Buddha. It's much cooler in there.
We almost didn't make it to the Emerald Buddha and Wat Pho, because this man insisted that they were both closed due to some Thai holiday, and since we were neither monks nor men, we were not allowed in. LIARS! We got in no problem... along with every other Tom, Ricardo and Henri.
I've been spending the bulk of my money on bottled water, in hopes of avoiding dehydration. I suppose the Singhas and Tigers aren't helping that much.
Every where we've gone, we've had to find the shade to sit in. And every night, we've gone to the bar down the street to see EPL games with the British expats. (What can I say? We love football!) (Also, this place had the most disgusting bathroom I've ever encountered, with the sole exception being the port-a-potties at the Phoenix Bouldering Comp on a Sunday morning.)
Jen feels that I should mention that if you hear we've been jailed in Thailand, it will be because we've punched a tuk-tuk driver in the face, what with their incessant "tuk-tuk" and pointing. And I might add, if we end up in the hospital, it's because we've been run over by one of the red, blue, orange or pink taxis after refusing to acknowledge their incessant beeping.
Ta ta for now!
Saturday, April 19, 2008
Welcome to the Land of Smiles
Although our flight was delayed out of Los Angeles, we had no problems making our connection in Hong Kong. We arrived in Bangkok last night, and grabbed an airport-approved taxi. Although he had to stop once to get directions to our hotel, and complained about the "baby" tip I gave him, we arrived safely at New Siam Guest House... and walked around the corner to New Siam Guest House II, where we had reservations. (Apparently there is also a III and IV, somewhat of a monopoly going on here!)
Our first room was pleasant, until Jen noticed that there were ants crawling on the bed. So we moved to the room across the hall, showered off as much airplane goo as possible and passed out.
After finally getting under way this morning, we felt the humidity as soon as we stepped out our door. It's not too bad though. You just end up feeling moist. (Eew.) We made our arrangements for some travel after our few days here in Bangkok, and now the plan is to get ourselves some massages!
I'm sure I'll have more to write later...
Our first room was pleasant, until Jen noticed that there were ants crawling on the bed. So we moved to the room across the hall, showered off as much airplane goo as possible and passed out.
After finally getting under way this morning, we felt the humidity as soon as we stepped out our door. It's not too bad though. You just end up feeling moist. (Eew.) We made our arrangements for some travel after our few days here in Bangkok, and now the plan is to get ourselves some massages!
I'm sure I'll have more to write later...
Wednesday, April 16, 2008
Step One through Seven
1. Buy one plane ticket to/from Bangkok, Thailand
2. Quit job(s)
3. Spend insane amounts of money at REI
4. Buy music, update and charge iPod5. Pack backpack, day bag, shoulder bag
6. Purchase US Weekly, People, multiple books
7. Attach hip to husband's for remainder of time before take-off
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